Alternatively, there is work on sending an "upgrade" header in your regular HTTP response: http://code.google.com/p/chromium/issues/detail?id=69688
The NPN route is obviously the best in terms of performance, since the protocol can be negotiated as part of the TLS handshake..
Long story short: you can definitely run your own SPDY server and Chrome will auto-detect and use the protocol.
If you have any trouble, please hop on to the spdy-dev@google.com mailing list for help.
It looks like SPDY-enabled clients check for SPDY implentations first (which fails very quickly if absent) and then fails over to HTTP.